The remarkable Lewis Chessmen are widely believed to have been made in Trondheim. Now, the tiny pieces of walrus ivory will be available to view in their hometown.
Having lived in Norway for almost 14 years now—12 of them in Trondheim—and having a mother from Lewis, I've long been fascinated by the story of the Lewis Chessmen.
The iconic chess pieces, carved from walrus ivory more than 900 years ago, are usually on display at the British Museum in London, where they are among the museum’s most visited treasures.
In fact, I got to see them myself just a few weeks ago when I visited London. I made a beeline for the display once I'd seen the Rosetta Stone and the amazing Ancient Egyptian exhibition.
Now, some of the world's most famous chess pieces are coming “home” this spring in a special exhibition that will showcase their mysterious history and deep ties to Norway.
From 6 May, 2025, several of these remarkable medieval pieces will be on show at NTNU University Museum in Trondheim.
Made in Trondheim?
Although the Lewis Chessmen were discovered on the Isle of Lewis in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides in 1831, many experts believe they were originally crafted in Trondheim, known in medieval times as Nidaros.
“These are some of the greatest archaeological treasures in the Nordic countries,” says Hans Stenøien, director of NTNU University Museum, to NRK. “Now they are finally coming home.”
While scholars have long debated where the chess pieces were made, the consensus today is that Trondheim—a key centre for the walrus ivory trade in the 12th century—is the most likely origin.
“Trondheim was an important trade hub for walrus ivory, particularly from Greenland and Northern Norway,” said James Barrett, professor of archaeology at NTNU.
He added that artistic similarities between the carvings on the chess pieces and medieval sculptures found in Nidaros Cathedral and churches across Trøndelag further support this theory.
A Rare Chance to See the Chessmen in Norway
The arrival of the Lewis Chessmen marks a rare opportunity to see these globally famous artefacts on Norwegian soil.
Although they were made famous through their connection to the British Museum and pop culture — including an appearance in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone — their roots run deep in Norway’s medieval past.
The Lewis Chessmen will be the centrepiece of a broader exhibition titled “Havets Elfenbein” (Ivory from the Sea).
Visitors will also be able to see other remarkable medieval artefacts made from walrus ivory, including a bishop’s crozier head from the 1300s and an intricately carved casket.
The exhibition will feature high-security display cases to protect these priceless objects, and other highlights include the “rope cross” from Munkholmen, on loan from the National Museum in Copenhagen.
The Story Of The Lewis Chessmen
The Lewis Chessmen, unearthed on the Isle of Lewis in the 1830s, are among Scotland’s most famous archaeological discoveries.
Crafted in 12th-century Scandinavia—most likely Trondheim, Norway—the incomplete sets include kings, queens, bishops, knights, pawns, and warders, predecessors of today’s rooks.
Now split between the British Museum and the National Museum of Scotland, they remain hugely popular with museum visitors.
Discovered in a sandbank at Camas Uig by Malcolm MacLeod, their origin is still a mystery. One theory suggests Norse traders buried them to avoid taxes.
“Perhaps some—broken or decayed—were left behind in that sandbank by whoever discovered them. Written accounts of the find are contradictory,” said author Nancy Marie Brown in her book Ivory Vikings.
Beyond their mystery, the Chessmen offer insight into Viking-era Scotland, touching on trade, religion, and Norse influence.
The “Ivory from the Sea” exhibition opens at NTNU University Museum on 6 May 2025, giving Norwegians and international visitors alike the chance to connect with a fascinating piece of shared history.
While playing a game of chess with the ancient pieces won’t be possible—they are far too valuable for that—seeing them up close in Trondheim is sure to be a memorable experience for history buffs, chess fans, and curious visitors alike.
